To Hell and Back

My second outdoor training was a solo mission since my usual hiking partners were out of town or booked to another commitment. I took to the road with pack in hand to the pine trees and cooler weather in Payson, about 90 minutes north of Scottsdale. It was a beautiful drive up there with winding roads that coursed their way through the hills as I gained to an elevation of just over 5000 feet.



The hike called for 16.8 miles round trip and marked as strenuous, I knew this would be an excellent training course. As much as I enjoy and appreciate the solitude of a hike, it is always nice to see a fellow hiker once every couple hours or so just to set your mind at ease. I was a bit disheartened when I saw a completely empty parking lot and wondered if it was the rolling thunderstorms that were looming on the horizon, or just the fact that it was marked as one of the top 3 most difficult hikes in the southwest. The trail started off on an old, abandoned jeep road and was difficult to hike in, fortunatley the first mile was a gradual yet graceful ascent that quickly turned into a lung busting climb.



I missed the turn-off from the old jeep road to the hikers trail only later to find later on my way back. So, I stayd the course of the old jeep road wondering who on earth would find this an enjoyable hike. The problem amounted that I would climb 3 different ledges drop down and climb again, all of course on a very large, rocky surface. After the first ridge I could see the magnificant beauty of the Hellsgate Wilderness.



Not realizing I had missed the 'hikers trail' turn-off and had stayed on the old jeep road I looked back not entirely enthusiastic about making the climb back up what would surely twist my ankle in a number of ways.




After I made it up and over the 3rd and final ledge I could start to make out the Hellsgate Canyon that would drop me down into Hellsgate itself. Still not knowing what 'Hellsgate' really was, I was excited about getting to the unknown. This had truly turned into an adventure for the ages.




Making my way on the rim of the 3rd ridge I had finally reached the Hellsgate Wilderness. All that remained was the drop into the canyon to see what Hellsgate was all about.



Dropping about 2000 feet in elevation I came across this, and if I could imagine any lake in Hell, this would be the picture in my mind. The reviews I had read about Hellsgate didn't match this description and soon realized this was just a tank, a water reservoir, that's used sometimes for cattle. I was desperately hoping that I would not be forced to drink from this and reminded myself that Hellsgate has Workmans Creek that flowed through it. My hydration bladder was only a quarter full now and I still had a ways to go to get to the creek, if it hadn't dried up in the hot, arid, desert climate. If it had, I would be in trouble.

Halfway down Hellsgate Canyon.

I could hear Workman's Creek flowing and it was music to my ears. I would learn later that this picture was actually the top of Hellsgate.

Finally at Hellsgate and Workman's Creek that flowed clear, cold water through it. At the doorstep of Hellsgate it was only 8 feet wide, most certainly a beautiful, natural creation.

With a splash of cold water on my face, I filled up the hydration bladder, after purifying it of course, it tasted great.

I had a relaxing lunch next to the flowing creek, a peanut butter clif bar, banana, some gummy fruits and more cold, refreshing creek water. I got a few photos, sat back and relaxed listening to the light rustling of the leaves and the ambience of the flowing creek. My tranquil relaxation period quickly ended when I realized that I had to eventually work my way out of the canyon.

The last mile was virtually a vertical drop and the more I thought about the climb out of there, the quicker I decided to put the pack on the back and get the hell out of there. NPI.

After 3 miles of climbing out of the Hellsgate Canyon I was back in the wilderness and saw this, not the most inspirational sign.

I saw the turn-off that I had missed coming in and was overcome with joy knowing I would have a more pleasant hike on the way out instead of having to climb those 3 initial ridges. I found another watering hole. Later I learned this was actually a different creek, where I come from this is called "a puddle".

Made it to Hell and back in just under 6 hours. The trailguide called for 9 hours or 2 days. It was certainly a great training run for Expo'10 but I was happy to be back at the car. "Where's the closest convenience store?", I wondered. I was parched and couldn't stop thinking about a frosty, cold orange gatorade.

I asked a shopkeper, where I got my orange gatorade, where I could find the best burger in town and was directed here. I really have no comment to make but just took a picture and decided to eat a left over clif bar and deal with dinner when I got back home, where things are a bit more "normal".

The Training

For 6 weeks now I've been working out religously in preperation for the upcoming expedition. Unfortunately living on the surfaceof the sun, it doesn't allow for "real life" outdoor training, so I'm succumbed to using weight vests on treadmills, elliptical machines, stationary bikes and the like. Although this is a good way to get into shape, nothing really replaces strapping on a backpack and getting out on the trail in the open fresh air. Unless you want to jeopardize your health and walk a tight rope of getting heat exhaustion or even worse, heat stroke, you really have no choice but to head north to the red rock and pine trees.

So, this last weekend I decided to do just that, get out in the open blue yander. The plan was to head north to Flagstaff and hike the tallest peak in Arizona, Humphrey's Peak. Unfortunately the last 2 weeks this state has been hit with some pretty heavy monsoons, even a tornado resulting in flash floods, mud slides, road closures and several times reported, lightening strikes. As much as I'd like to get my "trail legs" underneath me, I'm not a big fan of a lightening bolt turning my hair white and developing a sudden st-st-stu-stu-studder. I had to make a quick change in plans and found a hike that was marked as "strenuous" and "most difficult" in Sedona. Most people travel to Sedona to visit the many tourist shops, restaurants, pubs and spas. Some will venture out and find a nice 1 or 2 mile hike meandering past a babbling brook, a stroll in the park, if you will. My hiking partner Lindsey, who's originally from the Big Sky country of Montana, agreed that Mount Wilson would be an ideal place to really get the blood pumping, the lungs working overtime and with a hike over 12 miles round trip, climbing around 2500 feet in elevation gain in just the first 2 miles, would create not only a great training excercise but a memorable trip. Mount Wilson it would be and at 4:30 am we hit the road. 101 North to the 17 North and after a couple stops for a wilderness parking pass and some much needed hot caffeine and a breakfast burrito, we were on the trail by 7:00 am

Part of the first 2 miles "the climb" on the exposed side of Mount Wilson. We were fortunate enought to have 65 degrees, overcast with a slight mist, instead of the possible 95 and baking sun beating down on us.

It was magnificent, the clouds breaking around the various peaks of the red rock of Sedona were

too beautiful too ignore and had to stop for a couple more photo ops.

After about 2 miles we hit the first plateau, hiked another 1/2 mile and came to the second part, the direct face of Mount Wilson. We went from exposed desert slope to Amazon Jungle. The trail was not very well maintained and the tree branches, bushes and shrubs with the early morning dew, that drenched our bodies as we pushed our way through, felt very refreshing.

The "climb" up the face of Mount Wilson is behind us and my quads and calves were very pleased with the relief of just a gentle incline.

We came to a fork in the road and decided to head left and check out the Sedonaa Overlook first.

Got to the summit just in time as fast moving clouds and fog were about to block our view. We were able to see the gorgeous red rock canyon for maybe 10 minutes. It was eerie watching the clouds move in so quickly.

After the fog and cloud cover fully blocked our view we headed back to the fork to check out the North Canyon Overlook.

Complete white out. I couldn't help but wonder what it may have been. "Another day, hopefully a sunnier day", I told myself. My imagination ran wild of what was out there.

We were high up in the clouds and got hit with a pretty good rain dousing and fortunately was prepared with the rain gear. Once we got off the summit and hiked back below the clouds it dried out. Looking back it was a memorable hike and if you get the opportunity to go to Sedona, I'd highly recommend checking Mount Wilson, the highest peak at almost 7300 feet.

My Review of REI Flash 18 Pack

Originally submitted at REI

Versatility is the name of the game with the REI Flash 18. For use in your larger backpack or duffel, this lightweight daypack cleverly converts into a stuff sack simply by turning it inside out!

REI Flash 18 Pack

Excellent ultra-light daypack

By Desert_Dawg from Scottsdale, AZ on 8/2/2010

5out of 5

Gift: No

Pros: Comfortable, Lightweight, Easy To Load, Highly Adjustable, Large capacity

Best Uses: Commuting, Hiking, Office, Day trip, Backpacking, Cycling

Describe Yourself: Avid Adventurer

What Is Your Gear Style: Minimalist

I was looking for a very lightweight day pack to use around the many Arizona hiking trails and after reading a dozen or so reviews of the Flash 18 I decided to purchase it. I bought the mineral yellow and pewter (always good to have a bright color in case of emergency rescue). I first used it to hike, or rather climb, Mount Wilson in Sedona, AZ...highest peak in the Red Rock country and I was thoroughly impressed with the pack. It was so comfortable I forgot I had it on. It was very stable on my back (I'm 6'3" and 190 lbs) and the strap adjustments allow for even my long torso. Although it is a seemingly small pack (only 10 oz) I was able to get all the following into it:

Full 3 liter Osprey Hydration bladder
Rain jacket
Hiking pants w/ zip off legs
Fleece pull over
Thermal cap
Extra pair of sock liners
Ultra-light first aid kit
Space blanket and small misc survival items
Flashlight
Extra batteries
285 page book
3 cliff bars
3 GU shots
wallet
keys
blackberry phone
point/click camera
and still had enough room for a jetboil stove and a freeze dried meal or 2 if it was a longer hike and wanted to be extra cautious.

My only concern at first was that there is no padding because it compacts to such a small size but padding was not necessary at all because of the small size and goal to keep your pack ultra-light. The hydration bladder and hose worked perfectly. I've had other day packs before and they are heavier, bulkier and difficult to put in your full size backpack for day trips. I plan to use this for such a reason on a 7 day trip I have coming up. I would highly recommend this for anyone that does a lot of day hikes and wants to keep the weight down (in contrast to the heavier camelback packs that still do not have the space capacity as the Flash 18 has.

(legalese)

The Location

Why would any sane person take two weeks off of work, to hike into the middle of the forest, around lakes, over mountains and through rivers, all while living only off of what you pack in on your back, and simply call it 'a much needed vacation'? I know that may sound a bit unpleasant to some but I should add the abundant and beautiful wildlife that that are known to this area. Brown bear, black bear, cougar, mountain lion, bull moose and just recently reported on another blog, a sighting of a wolfpack. Oh, did I mention the occasional grizzly bear? Of course you do have your cute, cuddly, fuzzy critters like squirrels, chipmunks, field mice and marmots....but aren't they really just appetizers until a more sizeable, tasty entree comes walking along, say 190 lbs of soft and meaty goodness?

Oh, I did mention something about a vacation didn't I? Well is that really a vacation that a sane person would consider a good time? Especially since that sane person hasn't had a vacation since the Clinton administration? Well the answers to these questions at this point are completely unknown, so apparently I, the author, am quite insane.

Me and my 6'2'', 190 lb main course....I mean body, will be hiking into the Pasayten Wilderness located in the Okanogan National Forest just east of the Cascade Mountains in the Evergreen State for a period of at least 7 days. By the term "at least" I am referring to the fact that we don't get lost, injured, maimed or mauled.

Maybe I shouldn't have watched that documentary on the animal planet about Grizzly and Wolf feeling less threatened by humans now, then ever before. Not sure if that was the best choice of TV viewing...

Oh well, they look really, really cool. I wonder if they like to snuggle?

The Calling

It was July 2008, my good friend, a backpacking fanatic and a fellow outdoor enthusiast, called me up and asked me if I'd like to go on a backpacking expedition in the remote mountains in Washington state. Not knowing what I was fully getting myself into, I agreed. That expedition, or Expo'09 as we later named it, was set to go. Planning, training, more planning, more training and yes even more planning went into it for over a year.

3 days before I was to set sail on my amazing adventure, I decided to play in a pick-up soccer game. It could only help my fitness level of covering some 50+ miles of constant elevation gain upwards of 6000 feet, right? I've played soccer for 30+ years and never suffered a serious injury, nothing could go wrong, right?

Wrong! The phrase, "never say never" could not have been more true. The enevitable happened and 4 hours later in the Emergency Dept. at Scottsdale Healthcare-Osborn campus, I learned what I already knew in my heart. Diagnosis: Ruptured tendons in my left ankle, crutches for 4 weeks, stay off feet for 2 weeks. Alas, Expo'09 was put on hold for a later date.

Because of the snowmelt in this region affords such a small window of time, this extraordinary adventure hiking into the northern part of Washington and close to the Canadian border, could only be accomplished between mid-August to mid-September. We looked to the future for a better day, that day was the summer of 2010 and what was once known as Expo'09 was aptly renamed, Expo'10. The great backpacking adventure.